Brushed Fleece Fabric Guide: Types, GSM, Pilling and Bulk Sourcing

<p><strong>Brushed fleece is a fabric whose surface has been mechanically raised to create a soft, insulating pile.</strong> It may be knitted or woven and made from polyester, cotton or blends. For apparel buyers, the word “fleece” is not a complete specification: construction, fibre, weight, brushing direction, pile height, pilling, shedding and dimensional stability all affect performance.</p>
<h2>What is brushed fleece fabric?</h2><p>During brushing, wire-covered rollers lift surface fibres from the fabric. The raised fibres trap air, increase warmth and change the hand feel. Brushing may be applied to one side or both sides, followed by shearing to create a more uniform pile.</p>
<h2>Knitted fleece vs woven brushed fleece</h2><table><thead><tr><th>Konstruktion</th><th>Typical character</th><th>Common uses</th><th>Buyer checks</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Knitted fleece</td><td>Stretch, softness and casual appearance</td><td>Sweatshirts, joggers, hoodies and blankets</td><td>Growth, shrinkage, spirality and recovery</td></tr><tr><td>Woven brushed fleece</td><td>More dimensional stability and structured drape</td><td>Shirt jackets, coats, overshirts and home textiles</td><td>Fraying, seam strength, bow and skew</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>A plaid woven fabric with a heavily brushed face may resemble flannel, but fleece sourcing focuses more strongly on pile performance, shedding and warmth. Our separate <a href="/flannel-fabric-guide-benefits-care-trends-sourcing/">flannel fabric guide</a> covers classic flannel construction and sourcing.</p>
<h2>Common brushed fleece materials</h2><ul><li><strong>Polyester:</strong> durable, quick drying and widely used; verify pilling, static and heat sensitivity.</li><li><strong>Bomuld:</strong> absorbent with a familiar natural hand; verify shrinkage, drying time and surface wear.</li><li><strong>Cotton-polyester blends:</strong> balance softness, stability and cost according to the blend and yarn system.</li><li><strong>Recycled polyester:</strong> supports recycled-content goals when the certification and transaction documents match the order.</li></ul>
<h2>How to choose fleece GSM</h2><table><thead><tr><th>Omtrentlig GSM</th><th>Typisk anvendelse</th><th>Main approval point</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>120–200gsm</td><td>Light linings, active layers and thin tops</td><td>Opacity, warmth and seam durability</td></tr><tr><td>200–300gsm</td><td>Sweatshirts, joggers and mid-layers</td><td>Pilling, recovery and wash appearance</td></tr><tr><td>300–400gsm</td><td>Heavy hoodies, blankets and outer layers</td><td>Bulk, drying time and seam thickness</td></tr><tr><td>400gsm+</td><td>Heavy outerwear and specialised cold-weather products</td><td>Garment weight, drape and manufacturing capability</td></tr></tbody></table>
<h3>Example: 480gsm plaid polyester fleece</h3><p>The original fabric on this page was a 100% polyester, 480gsm, 150cm-wide plaid woven brushed fleece. Its weight can suit structured winter overshirts, coats, blankets or panels when the finished garment design can support the bulk. Before approving it for outerwear, test wind resistance, pile shedding, seam thickness, pilling and laundering.</p>
<h2>Single-sided vs double-sided brushing</h2><p>Single-sided brushing can keep one face cleaner for printing or outward appearance while adding softness inside. Double-sided brushing increases softness and insulation but may create more bulk, shedding and pilling risk. State which side is the garment face and include an approved directional cutting standard.</p>
<h2>Pilling: what “anti-pill” should mean</h2><p>“Anti-pill” is a performance claim, not a visual description. Agree on the test method, cycle count and minimum rating. The result is influenced by fibre length, yarn twist, construction, brushing intensity, shearing and finishing.</p>
<ul><li>Test the production colour and finish, not only an undyed quality swatch.</li><li>Evaluate both face and back when both surfaces are exposed.</li><li>Check garments at high-friction areas such as underarms, cuffs and side seams.</li><li>Do not assume a chemical anti-pilling finish will remain equally effective after repeated washing.</li></ul>
<h2>Other critical fleece quality tests</h2><table><thead><tr><th>Prøve</th><th>Hvorfor det er vigtigt</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Fabric weight and usable width</td><td>Controls yield, warmth and costing</td></tr><tr><td>Dimensionsstabilitet</td><td>Prevents size and shape change</td></tr><tr><td>Colourfastness</td><td>Reduces fading and staining</td></tr><tr><td>Pile shedding</td><td>Checks loose fibre transfer during use</td></tr><tr><td>Slidstyrke</td><td>Measures surface durability</td></tr><tr><td>Thermal resistance</td><td>Supports warmth claims when required</td></tr><tr><td>Stræk og restitution</td><td>Relevant to knitted fleece and fitted garments</td></tr><tr><td>Bow and skew</td><td>Prevents distorted plaid and twisted panels</td></tr></tbody></table>
<h2>How to inspect brushed fleece rolls</h2><ol><li>Condition the fabric before measuring weight and width.</li><li>Confirm fibre content, construction, face side and pile direction.</li><li>Compare bulk shade and plaid repeat with the approved standard.</li><li>Inspect for uneven brushing, bald areas, streaks, contamination and crease marks.</li><li>Measure bow, skew and pattern alignment across the width.</li><li>Separate dye lots and pile-direction variations before cutting.</li><li>Test representative rolls after laundering before garment production.</li></ol>
<p>For a broader inspection workflow, use our <a href="/how-to-inspect-bulk-fabrics/">bulk fabric inspection guide</a>.</p>
<h2>Cutting and sewing considerations</h2><ul><li>Use a one-way marker when pile direction changes colour or appearance.</li><li>Allow extra cutting capacity for heavy or compressible fabric.</li><li>Control loose fibres around machinery and garment interiors.</li><li>Select needle size, thread and seam construction for the actual bulk.</li><li>Grade bulky seam allowances and test pressing temperature.</li><li>Match plaid across visible garment panels when required by the quality standard.</li></ul>
<h2>Fleece RFQ checklist</h2><ul><li>Fibre composition and recycled-content claim</li><li>Knit or woven construction</li><li>Target GSM and tolerance</li><li>Usable width and roll length</li><li>One- or two-sided brushing</li><li>Pile height, shearing and face direction</li><li>Colour, plaid repeat and matching requirements</li><li>Pilling, shedding and abrasion ratings</li><li>Shrinkage and colourfastness limits</li><li>Packing, inspection and shade-group rules</li></ul>
<h2>Frequently asked questions</h2><h3>Is fleece always knitted?</h3><p>No. Many apparel fleeces are knitted, but woven fabrics can also be brushed to produce a fleece-like pile and warmth.</p><h3>Does higher GSM always mean warmer fleece?</h3><p>Not always. Weight, pile structure, density, air permeability and garment construction all influence thermal performance.</p><h3>What causes fleece to pill?</h3><p>Surface fibres entangle into small balls under friction. Fibre type, yarn, construction, brushing and finishing determine how easily pills form and whether they remain attached.</p><h3>Can 480gsm fleece be used for a coat?</h3><p>Yes, when the design, seams and machinery can handle the weight. Test drape, bulk, wind resistance, pilling, shedding and wash behaviour before approval.</p><a href="/what-is-gingham/">Plaid</a> <a href="/what-is-twill/">Vævet</a> <a href="/flannel-fabric-guide-benefits-care-trends-sourcing/">Stof</a> 100%Polyester 480GSM Anti-pilling Superblød Børstet <a href="/what-is-fleece/">Fleecestof</a> Til vintertøj

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<td width="168">Materiale:</td>
<td width="251">100% Polyester</td>
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<td>Mønster:</td>
<td>Børstet</td>
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<td>Funktion:</td>
<td width="251">Rynkebestandig, vindtæt, slidstærk, trækhæmmende</td>
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<td>Bruge:</td>
<td width="251">Dress, Garment, Home Textile, Suit, Coat and Jacket, Apparel Coat/Jacket, Apparel-Dress,Apparel-Skirts, Apparel-Pants&Shorts</td>
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<td>Tykkelse:</td>
<td>Sværvægter</td>
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<td>Type:</td>
<td>Fleecestof</td>
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<td>Bredde:</td>
<td>150 cm</td>
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<td>Teknik:</td>
<td>vævet</td>
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<td>Vægt:</td>
<td>480 GSM</td>
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<td>Modelnummer:</td>
<td>D1760</td>
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<td>Håndfølelse:</td>
<td>Berør blidt</td>
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<td>Pakning:</td>
<td>Rullepakning</td>
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